A Divergent Italian: Day 17 to 19 – West Coast of Tasmania

One aspect that will have a profound impact on your trip is the extent of preparations exerted to minimise the burden of any future challenges. This can range from route planning, accommodation bookings and servicing of your bike, down to the finer details such as toiletries for personal grooming and using the most suitable chain lubricant. The way that you utilise certain items may also make it that much helpful for you in making the most of your trip.

As shallow as this suggestion may sound, considering that the open road is meant to be the focus of entertainment, a comprehensive and extensive variety of music, as well as a bluetooth headset, is one thing thing that I would recommend to anyone looking to embark on a road trip for more than just a few days. I’ve had my fair share of multi-day trips on a motorcycle before this whole journey, the most previously for 5 days on the Multistrada out on the Great Alpine Road, and I’ve never really felt the necessity for music on-the-fly. I am a firm believer that all your senses should be working full-time to enable defensive riding techniques and, to me, this means ears open to be actively conscious of your surrounding environment. Moreover, I’ve always felt that the bouncing revs of a bike is to be my sole source of aural delectation. After a few days and a few thousand kilometres, however, even the constant symphony of a glorious large-capacity Italian L-twin can become tiresome. Fatigue is one thing that can easily become your demon and, although it’s no substitute at all for regular rest stops and good quality sleep, music can be of a huge benefit against boredom when faced with endless highway lengths.

More than just a convenient storage compartment, the tank bag on the Panigale also served as a chest support. Resting my chest on the bag, employing a race tuck position with the face directly behind the windscreen and buttocks slightly towards the tail, had greatly reduced the strain applied to my wrists and back, and this had enabled me to travel such vast distances on what is one of the most uncomfortable modern superbikes on the market. Being also a much more aerodynamic posture, the comparative lack of wind resistance meant that it was physically less fatiguing to my body. You may scoff at this particular suggestion, but with the tank bag it really did do the trick, albeit probably only viable for a supersport style bike with lower handlebars so this would not work on upright bikes. Try it out for yourself in the next big trip if it suits you.

Here are some other items that might be overlooked, but worth mentioning:

  • Sunglasses: A good pair of sunnies can very much substitute a tinted visor that would get in the way of precious luggage space.
  • Heated gloves: If you are embarking on a winter trip, this is something that must be considered. The hands are the hardest parts to keep warm with conventional gloves, and there’s nothing worse than trying to reach out for your clutch and brake levers whilst enduring through a case of frostbite.
  • Battery bank: Ensure your electronics are well-charged. Nothing more annoying than a phone with a flat battery.
  • Jerry can: This will act as your reserve fuel when you run out of petrol. It may save your day.
  • Food: My favourite emergency food would be a box of muesli bars; easy to store, simple to eat and keeps the fast food places at bay until you make it to your intended food stop.
  • Wet wipes: Great for freshening up in between a long ride day, and an effective way of cleaning off grease. It does work!
  • Water: This might be the most important item to carry. Do away with sticky and sugary sport and soft drinks. I would recommend carrying a minimum of 2 litres of water at all times, topping up wherever you can.

What are some of your must-haves in a massive road trip? Comment down below!

Day 17 – Devonport to Strahan via Zeehan

Ambient Temperature: 3°C to 14°C

5 West Coast of Tasmania-1
View of the sunrise from the Spirit of Tasmania ferry. A contrast from the sleepless night before..

Sleeping at a servo overnight is one thing, trying to get a restful night on a recliner seat is another. The overnight trip on the Spirit of Tasmania was the worst ferry ride ever, compounded by the raging seas which prevented me from taking a real break, occasionally shuffling around on the seat and swapping positions, eyes closed but constantly wide awake. I would have loved a cabin ticket, however they were none available at time of booking from a week ago. I would highly recommend absolutely everyone to take a cabin if travelling by night, as the recliner seats are more suited for daytime passengers.

I had initially intended to visit Cradle Mountain, a place of prominent natural beauty within the Central Highlands of Tasmania, and regardless of the season, I was prepared for the worst. The worst was what was presented to me, in the form of absolutely no access to the area, as the national park was snowed in, to the extent where visitors in the location were not able to leave.

I redirect myself towards West Coast where the roads turned from damp to frosty, and the cold conditions aggavated my focus due to lack of sleep. It was only a matter of a few tens of kilometres until I reached an extensive progression of mountainous roads caressed by inches of snow. My riding confidence decreased inversely in proportion to the increased coverage of snow, frost and wind to the point where I found myself crawling along desolate twisties at a measley 60km/h in a 100km/h zone. Turning back towards Launceston was an option that I was considering, but fulfilling my satiety for photographic rapacity sustained my will to venture out towards unknown territory.

Along the way, my clutch no longer applied as much pressure for smooth gear changes. Over an hour of riding, and the quickshifter no longer worked, and I suspected that it may be due to the clutch fluid requiring a bleed out or replacement. To ensure that the clutch plates were being engaged fully, the clutch lever was adjusted so that there was more travel for the lever to apply the needed pressure. However, this also meant that I needed to reach my fingers out substantially to grab the lever, which really detracted from fully engaging in my ride, and also promoted fatigue.

Both a physical and mental battle had to be put forth as an offering to this day’s roadtrip altar.  Reaching the coastal areas of Zeehan and Strahan*, I find myself in the eye of an oncoming storm, a soothing calm that settles my motographic paroxysm*. Ultimately, I reach the end of my ride for the day, finding my haven of relaxation at Strahan YHA, a rudimentary and featureless hostel. The hostel manager Jen, however, made every effort to ensure that I felt welcome and well-equipped for a pleasant stay, which was great as I was the sole person staying at the place for the night. Settling into a pack of muesli bars and a bottle of water, I ease myself to a much needed sleep.

*Strahan: Pronounced as “Strawn”.

*Motographic paroxysm: An impulsive state of mind whereby the importance of being able to photographically capture a momentous motorcycling experience overrides the logical function of one’s normal thought process.

5 West Coast of Tasmania-2 5 West Coast of Tasmania-3 5 West Coast of Tasmania-4 5 West Coast of Tasmania-5

5 West Coast of Tasmania-6
Avoiding the blatantly overpriced food on the ship meant that my stomach was eating itself up inside by the time I alighted from the ship. Time to see myself within the guilty comfort of a McDonalds in Devonport, thanks to the availability of wi-fi.

5 West Coast of Tasmania-7 5 West Coast of Tasmania-8

5 West Coast of Tasmania-9
Stopover at Burnie, where the weather remained flawless for a while. Sunbaking amongst the seaweed…

5 West Coast of Tasmania-10 5 West Coast of Tasmania-11

5 West Coast of Tasmania-12
More often than not, the appearance of a rainbow symbolised the prophesy of turbulent times to come…
5 West Coast of Tasmania-13
One for the letter box enthusiasts.
5 West Coast of Tasmania-14
Tasmania: A place where the sun shines and torrential rain falls simultaneously.

5 West Coast of Tasmania-15 5 West Coast of Tasmania-16 5 West Coast of Tasmania-17 5 West Coast of Tasmania-18

5 West Coast of Tasmania-19
“Two roads diverged into a wood, and I, I took the one less travelled by, and that has made all the difference.” – quote from The Road Not Taken by Robert Frost.

5 West Coast of Tasmania-20 5 West Coast of Tasmania-21 5 West Coast of Tasmania-22 5 West Coast of Tasmania-23

5 West Coast of Tasmania-24
As kilometres of wet tarmac was eaten up by the Pirellis, the road grew increasingly frosty and sides of the road became dense with a white coverage accumulated from overnight snowfalls.

5 West Coast of Tasmania-25 5 West Coast of Tasmania-26 5 West Coast of Tasmania-27 5 West Coast of Tasmania-28 5 West Coast of Tasmania-29 5 West Coast of Tasmania-30

5 West Coast of Tasmania-31
Made it down from the snow-covered ranges. Roads are still wet, rain constantly falling every now and then. Just when it was least expected the sun made a brief guest appearance.
5 West Coast of Tasmania-32
Up the mountain ranges again, where the very infrequent traffic came to a halt, thanks to a spin out by a station wagon that was stuck in a ditch deep into the forest.
5 West Coast of Tasmania-33
…and this is why you don’t insist on maintaining the signposted speed limit of 100km/h when it is frosty. The painted warning on the road says it all..
5 West Coast of Tasmania-34
At Zeehan for a fill up. Unmanned servo, we meet again.
5 West Coast of Tasmania-35
Made it down to the coastline near Strahan, where the constant rain decided to give it a rest for the time.

5 West Coast of Tasmania-36 5 West Coast of Tasmania-37

5 West Coast of Tasmania-38
Sunshine in the West Coast area during winter is a real luxury. Relishing in it whenever possible.
5 West Coast of Tasmania-39
Almost at Strahan, desperate to give myself a break and a hot shower to just end it all for the day..
5 West Coast of Tasmania-40
Fatigued body, frozen hands, soggy wet boots. So glad to have made it to the comfort of a heated room. Happy to call it a day no later than now.

Day 18 – Strahan to Hobart

Ambient Temperature: -1°C to 7°C

5 West Coast of Tasmania-41
Fully rested, all freshened up, ready for a new day with the Panigale..

Out on the cold wet roads of the wilderness of Tasmania once again, I approach Queenstown, a mining town which is surrounded by cliffside roads along mountainous hills. Due to the severe fog and constant light rain, I was not able to see the most out of the twisties in the region. This is one place where I’d love to visit again when balmy conditions replace the wet climate.

As I progres further towards Derwent Bridge, the road turns into the snowy landscape as seen from the previous day. The conditions were worse, however, as temperatures dipped down to near-subzero temperatures in the middle of the day, and certain parts of the road were scattered with snow. I relented from even attempting to ride the speed limit, as the very few local cars would overtake me. Some of the drivers out here are serial speeders.

Eventually, I reach the end of the national park and head towards Hobart. Just like that, the atmosphere changes from a dull and gloomy forest to a glimmer of hope displayed from a cloudy but sunny country landscape. Gigantic overhead power lines indicated the end of the wilderness, and a road back to civilisation. Suddenly, the 100km/h speed limit made total sense. Suddenly, I was no longer held back by unfavourable road conditions. Suddenly, it no longer mattered that my waterproof gloves and boots were soaking wet. It doesn’t matter where you’ve ridden, what you’ve ridden, the dry roads of Tasmania are more enticing, more safe, yet more exciting and relaxing at the same time. There’s a reason why Tasmanian roads are rated as one of the best riding roads in the world.

5 West Coast of Tasmania-42 5 West Coast of Tasmania-43

5 West Coast of Tasmania-44
…and the massive downpour of rain, yet again, makes its triumphant return. With only around 15 clear days annually, the gloomy weather is typical of the western coast of Tasmania.

5 West Coast of Tasmania-45 5 West Coast of Tasmania-46

5 West Coast of Tasmania-47
Made it across some sandy gravel roads towards Ocean Beach, where rough seas crash along over 30kms of desolate shorelines. You won’t want to step foot on to this beach for a swim. Risky and dangerous might even be an understatement. Excellent venue, though, for a 4WD or an offroad buggy!

5 West Coast of Tasmania-48 5 West Coast of Tasmania-49

5 West Coast of Tasmania-50
It’s a puddle that an R1200GS would jovially take on. I choose to be a level-headed, sensible Ducati rider for now, and decide to simply turn back. I’ve had my fair share of issues throughout my trip, and an isolated beach surrounded by the wilderness of western Tasmania is not a place where I want to end it all.
5 West Coast of Tasmania-51
If your bike is clean when going on an adventure, you are doing it wrong.
5 West Coast of Tasmania-52
The rain would not stop and I really needed to just sit down and recharge myself, so I find myself under an enclosed wooden bus shelter.

5 West Coast of Tasmania-53 5 West Coast of Tasmania-54

5 West Coast of Tasmania-55
Queenstown, where craggy mountains support a heavenly assortment of winding roads along cliffs. I’d imagine this place to be an insanely awesome location for a ride during the dry and warm season of summer. For now, I’ll save my corner-carving antics for another time..

5 West Coast of Tasmania-56 5 West Coast of Tasmania-57 5 West Coast of Tasmania-58 5 West Coast of Tasmania-59

5 West Coast of Tasmania-60
The yellow tinge that is prevalent on the surrounding terrain of Queenstown is due to sulphuric deposits and pollution from heavy industrial activity of the past century.

5 West Coast of Tasmania-61 5 West Coast of Tasmania-62 5 West Coast of Tasmania-63 5 West Coast of Tasmania-64 5 West Coast of Tasmania-65 5 West Coast of Tasmania-66

5 West Coast of Tasmania-67
The soul of an Italian within the heart of the wilderness. As the darkened sun casts its shadows upon the woods, frost approaches like a cold disease.
5 West Coast of Tasmania-68
Entering the heritage-listed wilderness of Franklin-Gordon Wild Rivers National Park. Dryness is one thing that the Tasmanian wilderness does not know.
5 West Coast of Tasmania-69
The continuous rainfalls in the region means that there is also a constant stream of water running from up the mountains and eventually joining up to contribute to the water flow of rivers that end up at Lake Gordon.

5 West Coast of Tasmania-70 5 West Coast of Tasmania-71 5 West Coast of Tasmania-72 5 West Coast of Tasmania-73 5 West Coast of Tasmania-745 West Coast of Tasmania-76

5 West Coast of Tasmania-75
Yet again, I encounter snow. And then even more snow. Needless to say, frozen hands, frozen face. A very cold place.

5 West Coast of Tasmania-77 5 West Coast of Tasmania-78 5 West Coast of Tasmania-79 5 West Coast of Tasmania-80

5 West Coast of Tasmania-81
At the Hungry Wombat Cafe, in Derwent Bridge, where I was the only person out in the cold in this small isolated town.

5 West Coast of Tasmania-82 5 West Coast of Tasmania-83 5 West Coast of Tasmania-84 5 West Coast of Tasmania-85

5 West Coast of Tasmania-86
Powerlines: The provider of power, distributor of energy, a synergy forming the basis of modern civilisation.
5 West Coast of Tasmania-87
100km/h speed limit, with plentiful wide corners, a predictable DRY road surface and a pleasant lack of traffic. An insight of the Tasmania that I’ve read and heard about extensively, but have not experienced… until now…
5 West Coast of Tasmania-88
No longer am I surrounded by frozen dead ground, no longer segregated by the serene but dangerously isolated wilderness of national parks. But darkness is falling hastily..
5 West Coast of Tasmania-89
By 7pm, I finally arrive in Hobart, dirty and wet, but grateful to have made it back into civilisation.
5 West Coast of Tasmania-90
Slightly dazed from a challenging day on the road, standing in the middle of the Hobart CBD with not a clue for a few minutes.
5 West Coast of Tasmania-91
With a bit of luck, I manage to get my phone working again, and direct the GPS to the hostel which I would be staying at for the next few nights..
5 West Coast of Tasmania-92
You mean JATZ
5 West Coast of Tasmania-93
Didn’t know that plastic bags were not provided by supermarkets in Tasmania, as part of their green scheme of cutting down on waste.
5 West Coast of Tasmania-94
Dave: Just a good all-round name, good enough for a noodle shop in Hobart.

Day 19 – Hobart area and Mount Wellington

Ambient Temperature: 1°C to 10°C

5 West Coast of Tasmania-95
Nice try, stray nail. Close, but no cigar!

I decided on a simple relaxing day on the road today by exploring the metropolitan Hobart area. Visited various places such as Mount Nelson and Sandy Bay, but the highlight is of course the dramatic Mount Wellington, which is viewable from all corners of the city with it’s craggy terrain and snow-covered peak.

The clutch issue had to be resolved as soon as possible, so I searched around for motorcycle mechanics in Hobart that were open and ready to be able to provide servicing. Eventually, I had my bike looked at by the guys at Motorworks Motorcycles, who were very friendly and helpful. They are the official dealer in Hobart for Triumph and Husqvarna bikes. As they had no experience with Ducati bikes, they were only able to help me out with a clutch fluid change, but this did make a significant difference to the overall feel of the clutch lever. I was no longer having to stretch my fingers out just to reach for the clutch lever, and having to fully engage the lever to even allow for an acceptable gear change. The quickshifter issue remained, but I could do without it until I get back to Sydney.

5 West Coast of Tasmania-96 5 West Coast of Tasmania-97 5 West Coast of Tasmania-98 5 West Coast of Tasmania-99

5 West Coast of Tasmania-100
Up in the hilly suburbs surrounding Hobart, winding roads such as this is plentiful. From almost any vantage point from up the hills, you are able to catch a glimpse of the beautiful harbour city.

5 West Coast of Tasmania-101 5 West Coast of Tasmania-102 5 West Coast of Tasmania-103 5 West Coast of Tasmania-104

5 West Coast of Tasmania-105
Up at Mount Nelson, where some nice lemonade scones are fresh served. A cafe with a view.

5 West Coast of Tasmania-106  5 West Coast of Tasmania-108 5 West Coast of Tasmania-109 5 West Coast of Tasmania-110

5 West Coast of Tasmania-107
Up at the Tolmans Hill residential development area. Beautiful location, where views are there and everywhere.

5 West Coast of Tasmania-111 5 West Coast of Tasmania-112 5 West Coast of Tasmania-113 5 West Coast of Tasmania-114 5 West Coast of Tasmania-115 5 West Coast of Tasmania-116

5 West Coast of Tasmania-117
Up from Mount Wellington, standing at a very imposing 1271 metres from the ground up. Only 15kms from the CBD, and a 20 minute drive, it is where Hobartians get their snowy mountain fix during various times of the year.

5 West Coast of Tasmania-118 5 West Coast of Tasmania-119 5 West Coast of Tasmania-120 5 West Coast of Tasmania-121

5 West Coast of Tasmania-122
With a temperature difference of 10°C between lower Hobart and the pinnacle of Mount Wellington, they are worlds apart in terms of climate.

5 West Coast of Tasmania-123 5 West Coast of Tasmania-124 5 West Coast of Tasmania-125 5 West Coast of Tasmania-126

5 West Coast of Tasmania-127
As a snow storm brews, I promptly take some last minute shots from Mount Wellington, where fresh snow flakes were plentiful.

5 West Coast of Tasmania-128 5 West Coast of Tasmania-129

5 West Coast of Tasmania-130
Several hundred metres below from the pinnacle of Mount Wellington, where the views of the city down below were much clearer.

5 West Coast of Tasmania-131 5 West Coast of Tasmania-132

5 West Coast of Tasmania-133
Top of the world, baby!

5 West Coast of Tasmania-134 5 West Coast of Tasmania-135 5 West Coast of Tasmania-136 5 West Coast of Tasmania-137

5 West Coast of Tasmania-138
Many thanks to Motorworks Motorcycles in Hobart, who were kind enough to replace and bleed out my clutch fluid only moments from closing for the day. Great bunch of guys, give them a visit if you can!
5 West Coast of Tasmania-139
A calm urban ride down to the Sandy Bay area of Hobart, where there is a large university student population.
5 West Coast of Tasmania-140
From Sandy Bay, looking towards Mount Wellington.
5 West Coast of Tasmania-141
I just wanted a simple haircut, but apparently the gentleman was booked out until the next Wednesday!
5 West Coast of Tasmania-142
Time for some crappy fast food for dinner to nourish myself.
5 West Coast of Tasmania-143
Met this quirky but interesting and highly talkative 60 year old film photographer who was staying at the same hostel room as I was. Had a good conversation where he spoke of his own motorcycle adventures when he was in India back in his 20s.

To be continued…

Map - Day 17 to 19 - West Coast of Tasmania

One comment

  1. Hi Dave,

    Loved your 2015 journey to Tassy in winter. I’ve added the the link to your story to Perth motorcycle FB pages in an effort to get some people to come over with me to enjoy the twisties there as it is awesome.

    The photos of the snow and your Pani might scare some people off although I told them the snow is “free”…no snow over here.

    I’m from Tassy, I miss riding there and miss it a lot in this place with very few bends or mountains or track open to bikes.

    I look forward to looking at your other journeys on the blog. You’re a hard core adventurer doing winter and gravel on a most unlikely sports bike. 😉

    Cheers, Paul

    Like

Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out /  Change )

Google+ photo

You are commenting using your Google+ account. Log Out /  Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out /  Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out /  Change )

Connecting to %s